...Wish me luck!
I'll hopefully share a little about the journey once I get there!
Saturday, 11 September 2010
Thursday, 9 September 2010
...одну картошку, пожалуйста...
Finally! My little treat in St Petersburg, the wonders that are - literally speaking - 'little potatoes' from the kitchens of 'Север' can be purchased by yours truly with proper Russian conjugation.
Sick and tired of getting it wrong, I asked the very nice young lady behind the counter of its Nevsky Prospect branch. She seemed puzzled by my request at first but eventually twigged.
одна картошка,
две картошки,
...
пять картошкой,
...and just make things even more complicated, you have to put it in the 'accusative' case if you want to request one from said, nice lady behind the counter. "одну картошку, пожалуйста"
Sick and tired of getting it wrong, I asked the very nice young lady behind the counter of its Nevsky Prospect branch. She seemed puzzled by my request at first but eventually twigged.
одна картошка,
две картошки,
...
пять картошкой,
...and just make things even more complicated, you have to put it in the 'accusative' case if you want to request one from said, nice lady behind the counter. "одну картошку, пожалуйста"
Wednesday, 8 September 2010
Sending in the big guns...
Unfortunately this write up is coming about three months after the event - filling gaps from my absence in Moscow - but I thought there were a few worthwhile words / photos to include still.Despite the absence of any T-34 tanks, I'd recommend losing a few hours in the vaulted 
corridors of the artillery museum. Its a pretty comprehensive history, everything from the early days of cannons - including some pretty impressive contraptions that never quite took off in the same way...discus firing gun anyone? - through to the nuclear age and rockets that look like they should never have fitted in through the front door.
corridors of the artillery museum. Its a pretty comprehensive history, everything from the early days of cannons - including some pretty impressive contraptions that never quite took off in the same way...discus firing gun anyone? - through to the nuclear age and rockets that look like they should never have fitted in through the front door.For my own research interests it was nice to finally find a token reference to the Winter War in one of the last rooms dedicated to the engineers corps. The exhibitions seems to have survived intact from the Soviet period, praising the exploits of its heroes and giving great attention to the successful undermining of White Finnish defences and the notorious 'Mannerheim Line'.
Enjoy the photos. For you animal lovers out there you might want to avoid the cabinets housing stuffed dogs strapped to explosives. They were trained to run under German tanks. I'm assuming those on display died a less dramatic death, otherwise it must have been a hell of job piecing them together again.
P.S - I almost forgot. For those of you want to experience a throwback to the Soviet days of the 'Stoloviaya' kitchen canteen you'll find one in the museum. Its menu is a little better than we get among the Moscow archives but you mind find a taste for them.
Tuesday, 7 September 2010
"Время летит!"
Besides providing a useful reminder for which of the verbal pairing corresponds to the uni-directional version of 'to fly' (...don't ask!) todays subject is probably more familiar to native English speakers as 'Time flies".
The reason for acknowledging this is a comment made my teacher today that turned out to be an unexpected compliment on the progress I've made since first coming to St Petersburg last April. Being as it was last April, the fact that she thought it must have been two, maybe three years since I was first here is either a reflection on how slow time travels when she's teaching me or, as it turned out, a realisation that my Russian has progressed quicker than she'd anticipated.
A victory then! And one I was determined to prove as not just a fluke aided by my talking to a teacher trained to communicate with any foreigner who happens to have a rudimentary grasp of the langauge...
Undecided about where exactly to go for my 'practical lesson' I wandered over to my old haunt, the 'Museum of Political History of Russia'. (Note to self: Must take a photo of this place for the blog!) The sun was shining after an overcast start to the day - we seem to be on a good run again this week after a few early wet days - but I was happy to spend a couple of hours inside. The front entrance is still being renovated so follow the arrows to the side door.
What started as a quick question posed to the cashier - pre-prepared and repeated in a rather strange inner monologue during the journey - about whether the museum had any material on the Soviet-Finnish War became a full blown conversation with various members of staff about what resources I might find in the city! And I understand most of it! And they understood me!
Needless to say there was nothing available at the musuem and no dedicated exhibitions they could think of, but regardless, I did what I came to do and got my fix of 'conversation'. Not only that but to be able to talk about my work, my research interests and what I hope to achieve in Russia over the next few months was a real bonus and will hopefully set me up for my travels in Moscow.
Anyway, plenty more work to be done and I think tomorrow I need to pick another likely candidate and go speak to the curators there. Maybe the Secret Police branch of the State History Museum again or the artillery museum which I'm still yet to visit. Watch this space...
The reason for acknowledging this is a comment made my teacher today that turned out to be an unexpected compliment on the progress I've made since first coming to St Petersburg last April. Being as it was last April, the fact that she thought it must have been two, maybe three years since I was first here is either a reflection on how slow time travels when she's teaching me or, as it turned out, a realisation that my Russian has progressed quicker than she'd anticipated.
A victory then! And one I was determined to prove as not just a fluke aided by my talking to a teacher trained to communicate with any foreigner who happens to have a rudimentary grasp of the langauge...
Undecided about where exactly to go for my 'practical lesson' I wandered over to my old haunt, the 'Museum of Political History of Russia'. (Note to self: Must take a photo of this place for the blog!) The sun was shining after an overcast start to the day - we seem to be on a good run again this week after a few early wet days - but I was happy to spend a couple of hours inside. The front entrance is still being renovated so follow the arrows to the side door.
What started as a quick question posed to the cashier - pre-prepared and repeated in a rather strange inner monologue during the journey - about whether the museum had any material on the Soviet-Finnish War became a full blown conversation with various members of staff about what resources I might find in the city! And I understand most of it! And they understood me!
Needless to say there was nothing available at the musuem and no dedicated exhibitions they could think of, but regardless, I did what I came to do and got my fix of 'conversation'. Not only that but to be able to talk about my work, my research interests and what I hope to achieve in Russia over the next few months was a real bonus and will hopefully set me up for my travels in Moscow.
Anyway, plenty more work to be done and I think tomorrow I need to pick another likely candidate and go speak to the curators there. Maybe the Secret Police branch of the State History Museum again or the artillery museum which I'm still yet to visit. Watch this space...
Sunday, 5 September 2010
Too good to be true...
Little bit of drama at the supermarket this morning. Unfortunately I'd failed to appreciate one of the offers on display for fruit juice was only available if you bought three cartoons and not just the one. All was fine until I turned up at the checkout and faced the prospect of having to explain that I hadn't realised I needed to buy three and as a result wouldn't take just the one. (I certainly had no need for 6 litres of apple juice!)
To be fair I understood what they were trying to tell me, didn't panic and eventually got them to understand what I was trying to say. The only real problem was then getting someone with a key to authorise a refund on the till. No harm done but I'm pleased with how I coped. I think all involved eventually realised we were speaking the same language. Or trying to at least.
On a more positive note I also managed to explain to one of the staff I wanted to buy slices of cheese. And that I didn't know how to say 'slices of cheese'. Mime is a wonderful tool for filling in the gaps...
To be fair I understood what they were trying to tell me, didn't panic and eventually got them to understand what I was trying to say. The only real problem was then getting someone with a key to authorise a refund on the till. No harm done but I'm pleased with how I coped. I think all involved eventually realised we were speaking the same language. Or trying to at least.
On a more positive note I also managed to explain to one of the staff I wanted to buy slices of cheese. And that I didn't know how to say 'slices of cheese'. Mime is a wonderful tool for filling in the gaps...
Saturday, 4 September 2010
A revolutionary road...
I took a trip to one of the old districts steeped in revolutionary history today. A statue of Comrade Kirov dominates the central square, giving his name to much of the surroun
ding area, including the Kirov Factory, metro station and shopping centre. He's a figure surrounded by 'what-if's?' and 'who-dunnits?' in the history of early Stalinist Russia. Go see the Kirov Museum dedicated to his memory if you get the chance and don't assume the conspiracy theorists have it right when they argue Stalin played a direct role in his death. As ever, the jury is still out on that one...
However even before his name christened the post-revolutionary redevelopment of the region the streets had seen their share of working class unrest. Both the 1905 and February 1917 revolutions were precipitated by unrest at the nearby industrial complex. An impressive, constructivist inspired mural covers one of the buildings in memory of those proletarian heroes.
Perhaps its my working class roots but something about early Soviet design still resonates with me. Never mind the hammer and sickle being one of the most striking political and cultural symbols of recent years, its whole design ethos with clean lines and angular geometry seems powerful and timeless. They could design a good monument too, just cons
ider the one that sits at the entrance to the city commemorating the Leningrad Blockade.
Just around the corner I took a stroll through Ekaterinahof Park. A grassy little 'oasis' full of shady trees and delapidated fairground rides that still manages to lay claim to housing possibly the only remaining profile of Stalin in the city's vast collection of statues and memorials. Not that you'd know unless you were looking hard enough. Sculpted into the banner of a piece commemorating the Komsomol youth, his face is just visible alongside Lenin's. You'd be hard pressed to see it in a photo. Not that I have one. Damn camera ran out of battery!
ding area, including the Kirov Factory, metro station and shopping centre. He's a figure surrounded by 'what-if's?' and 'who-dunnits?' in the history of early Stalinist Russia. Go see the Kirov Museum dedicated to his memory if you get the chance and don't assume the conspiracy theorists have it right when they argue Stalin played a direct role in his death. As ever, the jury is still out on that one...However even before his name christened the post-revolutionary redevelopment of the region the streets had seen their share of working class unrest. Both the 1905 and February 1917 revolutions were precipitated by unrest at the nearby industrial complex. An impressive, constructivist inspired mural covers one of the buildings in memory of those proletarian heroes.
Perhaps its my working class roots but something about early Soviet design still resonates with me. Never mind the hammer and sickle being one of the most striking political and cultural symbols of recent years, its whole design ethos with clean lines and angular geometry seems powerful and timeless. They could design a good monument too, just cons
ider the one that sits at the entrance to the city commemorating the Leningrad Blockade.Just around the corner I took a stroll through Ekaterinahof Park. A grassy little 'oasis' full of shady trees and delapidated fairground rides that still manages to lay claim to housing possibly the only remaining profile of Stalin in the city's vast collection of statues and memorials. Not that you'd know unless you were looking hard enough. Sculpted into the banner of a piece commemorating the Komsomol youth, his face is just visible alongside Lenin's. You'd be hard pressed to see it in a photo. Not that I have one. Damn camera ran out of battery!
Thursday, 2 September 2010
Win!
My only real reason for posting this is its general awesome'ness! (I love technology...) I just picked it up from a Russian news report about the site.*
P.S - The album - and band - are on fire at the minute. Forgive the pun.
*Funnily enough I spotted a bus today (Sunday) plastered with an advertisement for "Карты Google" (maps.google.ru) which suggests you may be seeing a Google camera van in a street near you soon...
*Funnily enough I spotted a bus today (Sunday) plastered with an advertisement for "Карты Google" (maps.google.ru) which suggests you may be seeing a Google camera van in a street near you soon...
Back to school...
Little cultural reference for you. Yesterday was 'Knowledge Day' according to the Russian calender and as evidenced by the hordes of school kids dressed in their Sunday best and on their way to the first day of school.
It certainly seemed like a happier time for them than I ever remember the end of summer holidays feeling. Maybe the festivities are intended as a way to soften the blow.
The evening news was full of images of the new intake, bells being rung, flowers handed to teachers and photo-opportunities for President and Prime Minister alike. A great deal of optimism was on display not to mention freshly painted classrooms, new computer suites and attentive, quiet students. Still I can't imagine, after the festivities have died down, school life will prove that much different from what I remember...
It certainly seemed like a happier time for them than I ever remember the end of summer holidays feeling. Maybe the festivities are intended as a way to soften the blow.
The evening news was full of images of the new intake, bells being rung, flowers handed to teachers and photo-opportunities for President and Prime Minister alike. A great deal of optimism was on display not to mention freshly painted classrooms, new computer suites and attentive, quiet students. Still I can't imagine, after the festivities have died down, school life will prove that much different from what I remember...
Wednesday, 1 September 2010
He's got a ticket to ride...
What an anti-climax! I've had a harder time buying a train ticket in the UK. Still, no complaints and for anyone reading this, I'd recommend doing your homework before hand and come as over prepared as I did.
With all the relevant details of train and required ticket (the cheapest going) printed off all I had to do was hand over my passport, registration and the money.
I used the following guide to navigate my way through the Russian state rail network website (RZD) where you can find the relevant details for the day you want to travel. Its pretty much just a case of running the site through 'Google Translate' once you've inputted the relevant stations in Russian. [Санкт-Петербург / Москва]
Similar info is on the guide above but the important things from my experience are:
1. The date, time and tickets for each train are only released up to 45 days in advance.
2. The cheapest tickets [плацкартный ] sell quickly so get in there early. Even a week and a half in advance didn't give me much choice.
3. There are high-speed services (3-4 hours) from St Petersburg to Moscow but they're, unsurprisingly, quite a bit more expensive.
4. I went to the ticket office at about 10:30am on a Wednesday and there was no queue. The office is open from 08:00 - 20:00 so probably best to avoid peak times in morning and evening.
5. My train is going overnight, comes in at a pretty awful time (04:47) but only cost me about £15! Yes, £15! Considering what I'd pay for an equivalent trip from say London to Edinburgh this is incredible. And I get a bed to sleep in!
6. Though I'm planning on coming back to St Petersburg when I return to the UK it doesn't seem to be the norm to book return tickets. I think each journey has to booked seperately.
Happy travels!
P.S - For someone who doesn't own a single Beatles album I'm doing well with my song references!
With all the relevant details of train and required ticket (the cheapest going) printed off all I had to do was hand over my passport, registration and the money.
I used the following guide to navigate my way through the Russian state rail network website (RZD) where you can find the relevant details for the day you want to travel. Its pretty much just a case of running the site through 'Google Translate' once you've inputted the relevant stations in Russian. [Санкт-Петербург / Москва]
Similar info is on the guide above but the important things from my experience are:
1. The date, time and tickets for each train are only released up to 45 days in advance.
2. The cheapest tickets [плацкартный ] sell quickly so get in there early. Even a week and a half in advance didn't give me much choice.
3. There are high-speed services (3-4 hours) from St Petersburg to Moscow but they're, unsurprisingly, quite a bit more expensive.
4. I went to the ticket office at about 10:30am on a Wednesday and there was no queue. The office is open from 08:00 - 20:00 so probably best to avoid peak times in morning and evening.
5. My train is going overnight, comes in at a pretty awful time (04:47) but only cost me about £15! Yes, £15! Considering what I'd pay for an equivalent trip from say London to Edinburgh this is incredible. And I get a bed to sleep in!
6. Though I'm planning on coming back to St Petersburg when I return to the UK it doesn't seem to be the norm to book return tickets. I think each journey has to booked seperately.
Happy travels!
P.S - For someone who doesn't own a single Beatles album I'm doing well with my song references!
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