Just when things were getting interesting...

It was with something of a heavy heart that I took my last walk in the city today. (Though to be fair that sensation could just have been restricted rib-cage movement as a result of my wearing every piece of clothing possible...) Either the temperatures dropped or I've started to get a little more used to the cold. Its a shame I'm heading home tomorrow.

I can't offer much in the way of photos unfortunately, my hands remained fimly in gloves and pockets. Still I did finally manage to explore a little more of Vasileostrovskaya and the surrounding area, braving the 'harsh' conditions - it was actually blue skies and little wind today - to walk as far as the university district before crossing the Neva (by bridge mind, the ice isn't thick enough just yet...*) to Nevsky.

I managed to note the statue of Sakharov, who has been a subject of a number of my lessons with Katya. A fascinating figure who contributed to the development of the USSR as a nuclear power after the Second World War, before transforming into a political dissident and staunch advocate of human rights, earning the Nobel Peace prize for his efforts under persecution by the regime.

As a historian its somewhat humbling to find the extent of my ignorance still about such key figures in this country's history. I can only hope that diminishes with time as I continue to explore its past and present.

*I have to confess the urge to poke at it with a bloody big stick is almost unbearable. Its like seeing frozen puddles as a kid and not being able to resist cracking them. Just imagine it a million times worse! The torture...

Did someone say breach of copyright?

You have to love Russia. In no other European country that I've been in have I seen such flagrant disregard for copyright law. God forbid I ever get a job in the media and suddenly have an opinion about digital piracy...

Yet for all its raping and pillaging, lost youth and rum soaked adventures...hold on I think I've got the wrong pirates...for all its stealing of poor, struggling artists' works (or X-factor runner-up bargain bin cover compilations) and undermining of a golden cinematic tradition (when its not exposing of the mediocrity of yet another half-arsed remake of an uninspiring sequel) there is a positive side.

If, like me, you value the opportunity to expand your cultural horizons, beyond the limits of mass consumed, MTV driven, advertising-exec friendly fodder, then the internet is a wonderful place. [I'll get off my soap-box in a minute, I just don't want to interrupt the flow...] It allows you to sample infinite delights, free of charge, encouraging easy and adventurous exploration before any well informed purchases - of which I still insist on making - of material in their vacuum sealed, plastic wrapped and packaged form. (Bonus features included)

It is with this in mind that I encourage anyone interested in exploring some of the delights of Soviet and Russian cinema to turn their browser to the following YouTube channel: 'birubirFilms'

I won't try and provide an exhaustive list of what is on offer here, all subtitled in English and lovingly uploaded with a brief account of their place in film / television history. If you check the comments page you can also find a direct link to download them in DivX for digestion at leisure.

Never mind the benefits this is going to have for my language and understanding of Russian culture, some of these are just wonderful films. Enjoy!

*****

UPDATE: Nice while it lasted. Seems the bods at YouTube were more particular about copyright infringement than you or I...

Not sure how long it will last but someone else is now carrying the torch for free access to subtitled Russian films. Search 'IgorRusland' and their profile should come up. For how long is anyone's guess!

Frozen to the core...

I've lived my life thus far following a general rule that I'd never go on holiday in winter somewhere colder than it was in the UK. Hence I've never been found skiing the Alps or off visiting Father Christmas in Lapland. (Happy instead to wait patiently for him to come to me in the comfort of my own home...)

Thus its also something of a 'culture shock' to be faced with the temperatures St Peterburg is now experiencing. This isn't just cold, its bloody freezing. I went out today in obligatory winter wear - thermal base layer, two t-shirts, jumper, fleece, jacket, hat, gloves and thermal 'Buff' scarf - with blue skies above and a layer of snow on the ground. It took me at most about 15 minutes to feel the cold. More than 5 minutes with my gloved hands out their pockets taking photos and I would have welcomed them simply going numb instead of the crippling pain they quickly headed towards. I thought my nose was going to fall off and I couldn't risk standing still for fear of losing blood flow to my lower body.

Ok, so maybe I'm not quite a-climatized yet. Give it a few days and I might be ready to roll around in the powder making snow angels. I doubt it though. The Russians don't seem to see it as an opportunity for play and instead have proven very adept at shifting large quantities of it off the roads and pathways, even clearing the square in front of the Winter Palace by digger.

The real indicator of how close Hell must be to flicking on the central heating is that Neva has apparently gone from watery highway to frozen tundra in the space of a few days. I was not expecting to see this while I was here. Not sure it was worth losing a few limbs to frostbite in my effort to get a photo though...

Cool Runnings...

I've been meaning to post up some photos of my make-shift running track that - until the temperature took a massive plummit to negative double figures over the weekend - was my primary means of breaking a sweat while out here.

I managed a few sessions last week but its going to take a serious boost to my self-motivation to get me out while the temperature is as cold as it is now. More on that later...

The other option I suppose is to find myself an old wooden dachas in the mountains and scale a few peaks to cries of "Drago!" ala Rocky IV. (Which was actually shown with its obligatory half-arsed dubbing last week. I do love a good montage!)

These images show the straight course of the river which is crossed at either end by a bridge that allows a circuit around the circumference of the whole thing. You can also add in a few step runs for interval training if it takes your fancy. Its not usually under half a foot of snow and you'll find tarmac by the river and a dust track under the trees. Three or Four laps in a session is usually enough depending on what you're aiming for though just watch the wind can be tunnelled a bit to give you a contrast between head and tail wind depending on which way you're travelling.

The English National Character...

If there's one thing I can be sure of, one accomplishment that cannot be taken away, one thing that above all else I can look back with pride on during my time here in Russia, its the fact that I have introduced my teacher to Monty Python.

What started out as an inquiry into the English mentality - in other words our defining national characteristics - pointed me to that key ingredient, our sense of humour. Cutting aside all the anthropological jargon, the case studies and the statistical data, leaving behind stereotypes and surveys, what better way to learn about the oddities, eccentricities and contradictions at the core of 'us' than by what makes us laugh?

Either way its a bloody funny sketch. And a shop with nothing to buy rang surprisingly true for a Russian audience...(I almost feel a sociological study coming on!)

A Winter Wonderland...

I'm a day behind with this post but I've been playing catch up with homework all day so forgive the delay...

I managed to escape the apartment yesterday for a return visit to the main site of the Political History Museum. I was initially put off by the sight of scaffolding outside and the front gates locked. Turns out its under renovation but by no means closed to the public.

You'll now find the entrance to the right of the gates, down a side entrance. The layout becomes a bit of labyrinth but the signs generally point you in the right direction. (And of course I was helped by my two previous visits) Plastic shoe covers are a now standard issue though the exhibition rooms themselves appear to be free from the attention of the builders thus far.

I won't bore you with the details again. Just make sure you pay it a visit if you're in the area!

By the time I left it was dark out and the vast array of lights on display in time for Christmas offered illumination for my trek across the Neva back to Nevsky. (I realised even the bridges are lit up with an impressive length of fluorescent tubing!) I decided to delay my return home with an obligatory trip to my favourite Russian cake shop before an exploration of Nevsky Prospect's decorations. I eventually came across a veritable Winter wonderland, positioned behind the statue to Catherine the Great and featuring a ice skating rink and various stalls selling food and tourist tac.

A nice opportunity to people watch and recharge my festive battery with cheer, still I couldn't help thinking I was missing a hand to hold...x

The Day After Tomorrow...

As the picture from this morning shows shows, a bit of anti-climax but I'm sure there's plenty more where that came from...

Planning for the worst...

Even though I haven't seen the sun for the last six days I don't really have reason to complain about the weather. Its been chilly but by no means Siberian, its also been wind free and bone dry regardless of the complete cloud cover.

I'm assuming this is largely due to the fact I went to the trouble of buying wellies and waterproof trousers before coming this time. As far as I'm concerned they can continue to be unused for the next week and a bit.

However tonight we got our first real sign of snow. It wasn't heavy and by the looks of things it stopped after a couple of hours of light flakage but with the ground dry it was settling easily. I might have over-reacted as I took the chance to go shopping for enough food to see me through the next week but I'd rather do it now than feel trapped and hungry over the weekend.

If we do get decent coverage I'll take some pretty pictures. For now I'm happy to stay warm and dry in the apartment as I battle through my homework for tomorrow.

A cool, dusty embrace...

Well, as promised, today saw me tucked up in one of the city's many depositories of Soviet history salivating at the wealth of documentary evidence on display. Though only four small rooms made up the branch of the Political History Museum dedicated to the activities of Russia's secret police - from their formation under Nicholas I and through both the many Tsarist and Soviet manifestations and institutional makeovers - I still lost nearly three hours poring over the records.

From Lenin and Martov's original rap sheets within the files of the Okhrana, to Party directives on the formation of the Cheka in the throws of civil war and a declaration of Dzerzhinsky on the 'Red Terror' later doctored as incriminating evidence against Trotsky at the end of the 1920's.

This, ladies and gentlemen, is history. Its not pretty, its not glamourous, but my god it sparks my imagination and loses me to its cool, dusty embrace before I can resist.

Like most of the museums already discussed in this blog and found within the city, I discovered the staff of kindly old ladies a welcoming force of knowledge, stirred by my lone presence in their hallowed halls, desperate to recount endless insights into the documents and history on display. One lady in particular, regardless of my lack of Russian, nattered away happily, expecting only the occasional nod on my part while she offered her take on the revolutions of 1905 and 1917.

Meanwhile as I entered more contemporary exhibitions on the activities of the KGB in the 1970's and 80's, one of the guides did her best to answer my questions in a combination of broken English and Russian. (On both our parts!) If nothing else I'd love to return to some of these museums with a greater grasp of the language just to appreciate how much knowledge these guardians of knowledge maintain and repay their enthusiasm with more stimulating conversation on my part.

With the time lost here I didn't make it to the main branch of the museum across the Neva. Still I took the opportunity of free student access to pop into the Hermitage to see if I could catch up on a few more of its halls not yet viewed. I unexpectantly continued in history mode having found myself among the collections of Egyptian, Greek and Roman artifacts reminiscant of those on offer in my native Oxford's 'Ashmolean Museum'. (Link provided for anyone finding themselves in my part of the world...)

This developed into a complete contrast when I emerged among a temporary exhibition of new British art that was a heady mix of pop culture and pretentiousness. Nice to scratch the creative itch that I still manage to nurture. If there's one thing I should try and do when I'm in this city its pick up a sketchpad and draw.

The end of the day provided a pleasant surprise as I discovered the city lit up following my absense since the weekend. Nevksy Prospect was a little on the Blackpool promenade side but it was still an impressive spectacle and the hint of snow definately increased the festive factor. I can almost taste the turkey...(Though that could be my body ready for a change of its monotonous pasta based diet!)

Stalin vs. Trotsky...

I don't want to give the impression that I can now freely absorb Russian media. Tonight I returned to my favourite past time of trying to absorb its televisual offerings regardless of how little I understand. The reason being I'd spotted an advertisement for a documentary looking at the leadership battle between Stalin and Trotsky following the death of Lenin.

To be fair I was impressed by the amount of contemporary film clips that made up much of the documentary, its always nice to see the faces of history walking and talking in front of you. Still my following of proceedings was far more reliant on my historical knowledge than my understanding of the language. Unfortunately that also means my review is somewhat limited. Well at least we know who won...

Tomorrow, since I have a free day from classes, I plan to continue in history mode and both revisit the Museum of Political History - in the hope I can spend a couple of hours testing my translation skills on displayed documents - as well as its branch dedicated to the secret police over by the Admiralty. Riveting stuff. I told you this wasn't a holiday...

Becoming a media junkie...

I thought this was worthy of a post since it represents the first news broadcast I can claim to have understood in both (a little!) dialogue and its images. It formed part of todays class that also happened to include my first successful translation of a newspaper article and a broader theme of 'preserving the past vs. embracing the future'.

Its been a stimulating few hours and my brain has definately woken up to the idea that its not here for a break. Credit has to go to Katya for putting together a class that gave me the chance to mix history and current affairs, the combination of which is paramount to my course in Oxford. Its this ability to tailor the lessons on an individual basis that really brings home how much easier it is for me to make progress here.

Must be worth the wait...

I took a trip into the city centre this evening in the hope of finding a spectacle of light and colour. I didn't. Part of me wants to congratulate the city planners on realising Christmas doesn't start in early November, the other part of me wanted to see how pretty the city looked adorned with fairy lights.

To be fair there are still parts of the city decked out already, the photo above showing the view across the Neva of Peter and Paul Fortress is a case in point. Still the real surprise was to find Nevsky Prospect and the front of the Winter Palace adorned but not yet lit up. I can't imagine its an energy saving measure, but I'd love to know when the big day is. (I'll check with Katya tomorrow...)

Speaking of tomorrow my first class is scheduled at 10am. This is a godsend. Having woken up at 8am this morning to find dark, I went back to sleep only to wake up at 9am and find...dark. It stayed dark till 10am and with the cloud cover never got much above 'mildly gloomy' till about 4pm when it just went dark again. If it carries on like this i'll not see the sun for a fortnight!

The story so far...

I'm back. It's cold. And I've still got a long way to go...

For the last eight weeks or so I've been buried under the Oxford routine. Thankfully its not been as intensive as my undergraduate degree but its still been enough to make me realise my progress in the Russian language is not going to be even across the disciplines of speaking, listening, reading and writing.

There the focus in the classroom is on getting prepared for archival research. Lots of translations, lots of vocabulary building on the fundamentals of the Soviet system, population migration, the industrialisation of the Stalinist period, etc, etc. Pretty specialist. Unfortunately with the amount of gaps I have in my learning the improvements I've made haven't been as tangible as I would hope. I think some stuff has sunk in, just don't ask me what exactly. (Besides getting faster with the dictionary...)

That said, I was worried I'd managed to forget more than I'd learned when it came to my speaking and understanding. I might have been wrong on that one. The drive with Sasha from the airport gave me my first chance of 'conversation' and I have to admit I think I performed admirably. To think we touched on - ahem - the 'fundamentals' of Russian grammar (and its relation to English, given he's trying to learn my native tongue) during the course of the chat gave me hope that I'm not still sounding like a five year old in my sentence constructions. (I probably am though...)

My intention is to make sure my teacher, Katya, is strict with me for the next two weeks and even if we don't make much progress in the aforementioned grammar, at least I'll come away with something approaching a competant level of speaking to build on. Other than that its business as usual now I'm back. I should mention my flight though before I sign off. Thanks to a tip from Bart, the course co-ordinator, I found 'Rossiya Airlines' were in the middle of a special offer. I managed to secure return tickets (DIRECT! No circumnavigating Western Europe via Germany and Lufthansa!) from Heathrow to Pulkova 2 for about £160 (Lufthansa were quoting about £280).

Service was relatively faultless, though in the typical Russian manner, brisk and without any frills. One the other hand the meal was a mini feast and the important thing is we arrived early. (Surprising given we were half an hour late taking off and the time it took to taxi across Terminal 4 in Heathrow, I thought the pilot planned on driving most of way there...) Reading their in flight magazine they also offer the rather novel opportunity to buy 5 tickets in the course of a year and claim the sixth free. If the visa system weren't such a pain in the arse, I might have had use for this.