Just when things were getting interesting...

It was with something of a heavy heart that I took my last walk in the city today. (Though to be fair that sensation could just have been restricted rib-cage movement as a result of my wearing every piece of clothing possible...) Either the temperatures dropped or I've started to get a little more used to the cold. Its a shame I'm heading home tomorrow.

I can't offer much in the way of photos unfortunately, my hands remained fimly in gloves and pockets. Still I did finally manage to explore a little more of Vasileostrovskaya and the surrounding area, braving the 'harsh' conditions - it was actually blue skies and little wind today - to walk as far as the university district before crossing the Neva (by bridge mind, the ice isn't thick enough just yet...*) to Nevsky.

I managed to note the statue of Sakharov, who has been a subject of a number of my lessons with Katya. A fascinating figure who contributed to the development of the USSR as a nuclear power after the Second World War, before transforming into a political dissident and staunch advocate of human rights, earning the Nobel Peace prize for his efforts under persecution by the regime.

As a historian its somewhat humbling to find the extent of my ignorance still about such key figures in this country's history. I can only hope that diminishes with time as I continue to explore its past and present.

*I have to confess the urge to poke at it with a bloody big stick is almost unbearable. Its like seeing frozen puddles as a kid and not being able to resist cracking them. Just imagine it a million times worse! The torture...

Did someone say breach of copyright?

You have to love Russia. In no other European country that I've been in have I seen such flagrant disregard for copyright law. God forbid I ever get a job in the media and suddenly have an opinion about digital piracy...

Yet for all its raping and pillaging, lost youth and rum soaked adventures...hold on I think I've got the wrong pirates...for all its stealing of poor, struggling artists' works (or X-factor runner-up bargain bin cover compilations) and undermining of a golden cinematic tradition (when its not exposing of the mediocrity of yet another half-arsed remake of an uninspiring sequel) there is a positive side.

If, like me, you value the opportunity to expand your cultural horizons, beyond the limits of mass consumed, MTV driven, advertising-exec friendly fodder, then the internet is a wonderful place. [I'll get off my soap-box in a minute, I just don't want to interrupt the flow...] It allows you to sample infinite delights, free of charge, encouraging easy and adventurous exploration before any well informed purchases - of which I still insist on making - of material in their vacuum sealed, plastic wrapped and packaged form. (Bonus features included)

It is with this in mind that I encourage anyone interested in exploring some of the delights of Soviet and Russian cinema to turn their browser to the following YouTube channel: 'birubirFilms'

I won't try and provide an exhaustive list of what is on offer here, all subtitled in English and lovingly uploaded with a brief account of their place in film / television history. If you check the comments page you can also find a direct link to download them in DivX for digestion at leisure.

Never mind the benefits this is going to have for my language and understanding of Russian culture, some of these are just wonderful films. Enjoy!

*****

UPDATE: Nice while it lasted. Seems the bods at YouTube were more particular about copyright infringement than you or I...

Not sure how long it will last but someone else is now carrying the torch for free access to subtitled Russian films. Search 'IgorRusland' and their profile should come up. For how long is anyone's guess!

Frozen to the core...

I've lived my life thus far following a general rule that I'd never go on holiday in winter somewhere colder than it was in the UK. Hence I've never been found skiing the Alps or off visiting Father Christmas in Lapland. (Happy instead to wait patiently for him to come to me in the comfort of my own home...)

Thus its also something of a 'culture shock' to be faced with the temperatures St Peterburg is now experiencing. This isn't just cold, its bloody freezing. I went out today in obligatory winter wear - thermal base layer, two t-shirts, jumper, fleece, jacket, hat, gloves and thermal 'Buff' scarf - with blue skies above and a layer of snow on the ground. It took me at most about 15 minutes to feel the cold. More than 5 minutes with my gloved hands out their pockets taking photos and I would have welcomed them simply going numb instead of the crippling pain they quickly headed towards. I thought my nose was going to fall off and I couldn't risk standing still for fear of losing blood flow to my lower body.

Ok, so maybe I'm not quite a-climatized yet. Give it a few days and I might be ready to roll around in the powder making snow angels. I doubt it though. The Russians don't seem to see it as an opportunity for play and instead have proven very adept at shifting large quantities of it off the roads and pathways, even clearing the square in front of the Winter Palace by digger.

The real indicator of how close Hell must be to flicking on the central heating is that Neva has apparently gone from watery highway to frozen tundra in the space of a few days. I was not expecting to see this while I was here. Not sure it was worth losing a few limbs to frostbite in my effort to get a photo though...

Cool Runnings...

I've been meaning to post up some photos of my make-shift running track that - until the temperature took a massive plummit to negative double figures over the weekend - was my primary means of breaking a sweat while out here.

I managed a few sessions last week but its going to take a serious boost to my self-motivation to get me out while the temperature is as cold as it is now. More on that later...

The other option I suppose is to find myself an old wooden dachas in the mountains and scale a few peaks to cries of "Drago!" ala Rocky IV. (Which was actually shown with its obligatory half-arsed dubbing last week. I do love a good montage!)

These images show the straight course of the river which is crossed at either end by a bridge that allows a circuit around the circumference of the whole thing. You can also add in a few step runs for interval training if it takes your fancy. Its not usually under half a foot of snow and you'll find tarmac by the river and a dust track under the trees. Three or Four laps in a session is usually enough depending on what you're aiming for though just watch the wind can be tunnelled a bit to give you a contrast between head and tail wind depending on which way you're travelling.

The English National Character...

If there's one thing I can be sure of, one accomplishment that cannot be taken away, one thing that above all else I can look back with pride on during my time here in Russia, its the fact that I have introduced my teacher to Monty Python.

What started out as an inquiry into the English mentality - in other words our defining national characteristics - pointed me to that key ingredient, our sense of humour. Cutting aside all the anthropological jargon, the case studies and the statistical data, leaving behind stereotypes and surveys, what better way to learn about the oddities, eccentricities and contradictions at the core of 'us' than by what makes us laugh?

Either way its a bloody funny sketch. And a shop with nothing to buy rang surprisingly true for a Russian audience...(I almost feel a sociological study coming on!)

A Winter Wonderland...

I'm a day behind with this post but I've been playing catch up with homework all day so forgive the delay...

I managed to escape the apartment yesterday for a return visit to the main site of the Political History Museum. I was initially put off by the sight of scaffolding outside and the front gates locked. Turns out its under renovation but by no means closed to the public.

You'll now find the entrance to the right of the gates, down a side entrance. The layout becomes a bit of labyrinth but the signs generally point you in the right direction. (And of course I was helped by my two previous visits) Plastic shoe covers are a now standard issue though the exhibition rooms themselves appear to be free from the attention of the builders thus far.

I won't bore you with the details again. Just make sure you pay it a visit if you're in the area!

By the time I left it was dark out and the vast array of lights on display in time for Christmas offered illumination for my trek across the Neva back to Nevsky. (I realised even the bridges are lit up with an impressive length of fluorescent tubing!) I decided to delay my return home with an obligatory trip to my favourite Russian cake shop before an exploration of Nevsky Prospect's decorations. I eventually came across a veritable Winter wonderland, positioned behind the statue to Catherine the Great and featuring a ice skating rink and various stalls selling food and tourist tac.

A nice opportunity to people watch and recharge my festive battery with cheer, still I couldn't help thinking I was missing a hand to hold...x

The Day After Tomorrow...

As the picture from this morning shows shows, a bit of anti-climax but I'm sure there's plenty more where that came from...