Ah the joys of Russian grammar! Attempting to get to grips with the instrumental case has set my head spinning again. Combining that with an expanded vocabulary of business terminology was just a bonus. Its these lessons where I'm looking for the smallest victory to get me through the day.
I've left feeling drained but satisfied, after all the sun is shining again and I have the weekend ahead of me. Two days without lessons will hopefully give me the opportunity to consolodate what we've covered this week and spend some time exploring the city again. I'm tempted to make use of the good weather and travel a little further afield on the metro to the parks of the northern islands.
For now I need to eat and unwind. I've no plans for the evening, managing to budget pretty well this time and save my pennies before I head back to university. Still if I can find the energy I might go for a walk through the grounds of the Winter Palace again at night. I'd love to know the calories I'm burning with all this brain activity though...
Friday, 11 September 2009
Thursday, 10 September 2009
The beauty of light...
If the sun felt the need to retreat behind the clouds for much of today, its presence was definitely visible during my first introduction to the development of Russian art within the labyrinth that is 'The Russian Museum'.
I won't attempt to discuss in great detail the history or collection of this vast depository of works, the experience was far more emotive than a list of names and dates. To view these images in a semi-chronological manner unveals the distinct nature of the Russian tradition - to someone who never claimed to be a well informed art historian that is - with passing hints of a European influence that never seems to completely overshadow a move towards the fantastic expression of the beauty of light.
This is epitomised in the work of one of Russia's favourite sons, Ilya Repin, whose paintings dominate the collection from the second half of the 19th century. Alongside his contemporaries work after work shows a keenness for capturing light and the most fantastic colour. The specific names escape me - a return trip is likely after finding yet another discounted student entry - but the effect is permanent.
Religion also maintains a prominant role in the subject matter of even these more contemporary works. From this first introduction it appears that only with the arrival of Peter the Great the impetus to explore more secular themes found a market in Russia. The transition from the Byzantine-esq icons of the early period sees a leap to a more fully formed 'perspective' as the technical achievements of Western art are inherited without the same slavish addearance to classical traditions and narratives.
Instead this collection and the artists that produced it go on to offer a broad, deep and detailed view of Russian society. A multitude of figures each with their own character and stories appear across the works. The symbolism is unfortunately lost of this novice, but the chance to view life outside Western Europe is a joy.
Credit however must also go to my guide and translator Nastya, who ensured the time spent during this short afternoon's private lesson was an invaluable first introduction. The only unfortunate aspect of the trip was the closure of the collection from the Soviet period. However I can foresee this needing an eye unburdened by the aesthetic beauty of the earlier works to appreciate it on its own terms. Hopefully an opportunity will arrise later in my stay to do this.
I won't attempt to discuss in great detail the history or collection of this vast depository of works, the experience was far more emotive than a list of names and dates. To view these images in a semi-chronological manner unveals the distinct nature of the Russian tradition - to someone who never claimed to be a well informed art historian that is - with passing hints of a European influence that never seems to completely overshadow a move towards the fantastic expression of the beauty of light.
This is epitomised in the work of one of Russia's favourite sons, Ilya Repin, whose paintings dominate the collection from the second half of the 19th century. Alongside his contemporaries work after work shows a keenness for capturing light and the most fantastic colour. The specific names escape me - a return trip is likely after finding yet another discounted student entry - but the effect is permanent.
Religion also maintains a prominant role in the subject matter of even these more contemporary works. From this first introduction it appears that only with the arrival of Peter the Great the impetus to explore more secular themes found a market in Russia. The transition from the Byzantine-esq icons of the early period sees a leap to a more fully formed 'perspective' as the technical achievements of Western art are inherited without the same slavish addearance to classical traditions and narratives.
Instead this collection and the artists that produced it go on to offer a broad, deep and detailed view of Russian society. A multitude of figures each with their own character and stories appear across the works. The symbolism is unfortunately lost of this novice, but the chance to view life outside Western Europe is a joy.
Credit however must also go to my guide and translator Nastya, who ensured the time spent during this short afternoon's private lesson was an invaluable first introduction. The only unfortunate aspect of the trip was the closure of the collection from the Soviet period. However I can foresee this needing an eye unburdened by the aesthetic beauty of the earlier works to appreciate it on its own terms. Hopefully an opportunity will arrise later in my stay to do this.
Wednesday, 9 September 2009
'Blue skies and Butterflies' or 'Faith Restored'
I did not come to Russia expecting to work on my tan. Someone important must have realised I was owed my fair share of summer after another year in Oxford and decided to gift St Petersburg with some sunshine along the way.
We've had cloudless skies today, and not in the wintry, see your own breath and frost covered lawns way, but the "I should really only be wearing a t-shirt" and "If I don't move soon I swear I'm going to burn" variety. Just look at the photos...
I'd make some half-arsed comment about global warming if I weren't so glad not to see rain for a change!
Anyway, all this was a backdrop to another excursion into the city with Nastya and the group. Not particularly far afield this time round, we explored the multitude of churches (both in number and denomination) that cover Nevsky Prospect within about a ten minute walk from the metro station.
While the churches themselves were originally established under the open door policy of Peter the Great, the decisive period in recent history for them was of course the anti-religious attitude of the Soviet Union. It is amazing to
see how with this shift in attitude suddenly these religious centres were turned into everything from swimming pools, to concert halls, to warehouses. Granted some of this was out of necessesity during the 'Siege of Leningrad' (which for those of you interested the anniversary of its start was yesterday) while the rest fitted with the socialist agenda of the regime.
Unlike the fading presence of the Communist Party in the city - I did happen to notice a veteren selling copies of the party newspaper outside the metro station today - religion is again a visible force in St Peterburg. However the restoration work of its earthly temples is clearly incomplete. Its worth taking a visit to the Lutheran cathedral to see the photos from its time as a local swimming pool. When you walk inside you can still almost smell the chlorine at the sight of the public benches, white walls and levelled floor that still hint at its recent watery past. You'd think they could enjoy a roaring trade in mass baptisms if they just set the tap running again...
The Roman Catholic church - damaged by fire after its conversion to an orchestra hall in the 1980's - has embraced its troubled past with the salvaged remains of its east and west alters alongside the freshly painted walls and polished stonework. In much of these churc
hes the reliance is on copies of pre-existing iconography and artworks after their destruction by revolution or war. However, one of the most striking aspects of this church is an original alter cross lovingly salvaged and stored by one of the faithful through the duration of the Soviet regime. The dangers related to such an undertaking were significant, though it should stand as indication of the failure to wipe out religion and faith during this period in the country's history.
All in all another successful introduction to the history and culture of this fascinating city. I'm looking forward to continuing in this vain with a first trip to 'The Russian Museum' during my private lesson tomorrow.
We've had cloudless skies today, and not in the wintry, see your own breath and frost covered lawns way, but the "I should really only be wearing a t-shirt" and "If I don't move soon I swear I'm going to burn" variety. Just look at the photos...
I'd make some half-arsed comment about global warming if I weren't so glad not to see rain for a change!
Anyway, all this was a backdrop to another excursion into the city with Nastya and the group. Not particularly far afield this time round, we explored the multitude of churches (both in number and denomination) that cover Nevsky Prospect within about a ten minute walk from the metro station.
While the churches themselves were originally established under the open door policy of Peter the Great, the decisive period in recent history for them was of course the anti-religious attitude of the Soviet Union. It is amazing to
see how with this shift in attitude suddenly these religious centres were turned into everything from swimming pools, to concert halls, to warehouses. Granted some of this was out of necessesity during the 'Siege of Leningrad' (which for those of you interested the anniversary of its start was yesterday) while the rest fitted with the socialist agenda of the regime.Unlike the fading presence of the Communist Party in the city - I did happen to notice a veteren selling copies of the party newspaper outside the metro station today - religion is again a visible force in St Peterburg. However the restoration work of its earthly temples is clearly incomplete. Its worth taking a visit to the Lutheran cathedral to see the photos from its time as a local swimming pool. When you walk inside you can still almost smell the chlorine at the sight of the public benches, white walls and levelled floor that still hint at its recent watery past. You'd think they could enjoy a roaring trade in mass baptisms if they just set the tap running again...
The Roman Catholic church - damaged by fire after its conversion to an orchestra hall in the 1980's - has embraced its troubled past with the salvaged remains of its east and west alters alongside the freshly painted walls and polished stonework. In much of these churc
hes the reliance is on copies of pre-existing iconography and artworks after their destruction by revolution or war. However, one of the most striking aspects of this church is an original alter cross lovingly salvaged and stored by one of the faithful through the duration of the Soviet regime. The dangers related to such an undertaking were significant, though it should stand as indication of the failure to wipe out religion and faith during this period in the country's history.All in all another successful introduction to the history and culture of this fascinating city. I'm looking forward to continuing in this vain with a first trip to 'The Russian Museum' during my private lesson tomorrow.
Tuesday, 8 September 2009
Any excuse for a celebration...or cake!
What a difference a "день" makes!
After two long, intense, brain-cell consuming lessons with my very patient teacher Katya, my hard work has paid off and I've come away from my first practical lesson feeling like I'm almost speaking the same language as everyone around me.
Another aspect of my course this time round that differs from April is the chance to meet with a tutor, Nastya, in the city and put to practice all the theory battling for space in my head. Its provided the perfect opportunity to sort the mess out and put some of it to good use. I'm not claiming fluency by a long way but in the time it took to walk from 'Dom Knigi' to a cafe off Nevsky Prospect I managed what I would almost consider a legitimate two-way conversation.
Granted I still hit more than my fair share of dead ends and had to resort to requesting a prompt, but it was only through gaining the confidence to actually consider how I could express myself with the limited vocabulary I have that I've come away acknowledging my strengths rather than just my limitations.
This for me is where I'm expecting to develop the Russian I need for basic survival in a country still pretty ill equipped to deal with foreign tourists. I'm not someone who settles for the point and smile approach (or shouting loudly and slowly as the old cliche goes...) but at times you still think you're facing a brick wall in your attempts to communicate here. Its also provided a great opportunity to ask about some of the aspects of Russian life and culture, both contemporary and 'back in the day'. Its this all round education that this trip is becoming invaluable and leads me back nicely to what how my classroom lessons are going to develop over the next two weeks...
I won't go into great detail. My interest in being here and the demands of my course when I return to university in October aren't universal, but its telling of the flexibility on offer when undertaking one-to-one tuition. Having spoken to my tutor we've laid out a plan to spend the majority of my time while I'm here looking at the skills and understanding needed to tackle Russian history. Using (basic!) historical text and the grammar related to it I can begin to improve my chances of reading primary documents and fast track my way through the next year before I need to start research. Its been a daunting prospect up till now, but a challenge I'm only going to enjoy more and more as my progress continues.
And the cake? Well, any excuse for that. Anyone finding themselves on Nevsky Prospect with a few spare roubles in their pocket needs to make a trip to 'Север' (The North) for an incredible selection of everything vaguely fattening and high in calories. Look for a blue sign with a polar bear, a few blocks from the metro heading away from the Winter Palace. Tirimasu happens to be my poison of choice and at less that 300 roubles for enough to feed an apartment full of hungry language students you really can't say "нет"!
After two long, intense, brain-cell consuming lessons with my very patient teacher Katya, my hard work has paid off and I've come away from my first practical lesson feeling like I'm almost speaking the same language as everyone around me.
Another aspect of my course this time round that differs from April is the chance to meet with a tutor, Nastya, in the city and put to practice all the theory battling for space in my head. Its provided the perfect opportunity to sort the mess out and put some of it to good use. I'm not claiming fluency by a long way but in the time it took to walk from 'Dom Knigi' to a cafe off Nevsky Prospect I managed what I would almost consider a legitimate two-way conversation.
Granted I still hit more than my fair share of dead ends and had to resort to requesting a prompt, but it was only through gaining the confidence to actually consider how I could express myself with the limited vocabulary I have that I've come away acknowledging my strengths rather than just my limitations.
This for me is where I'm expecting to develop the Russian I need for basic survival in a country still pretty ill equipped to deal with foreign tourists. I'm not someone who settles for the point and smile approach (or shouting loudly and slowly as the old cliche goes...) but at times you still think you're facing a brick wall in your attempts to communicate here. Its also provided a great opportunity to ask about some of the aspects of Russian life and culture, both contemporary and 'back in the day'. Its this all round education that this trip is becoming invaluable and leads me back nicely to what how my classroom lessons are going to develop over the next two weeks...
I won't go into great detail. My interest in being here and the demands of my course when I return to university in October aren't universal, but its telling of the flexibility on offer when undertaking one-to-one tuition. Having spoken to my tutor we've laid out a plan to spend the majority of my time while I'm here looking at the skills and understanding needed to tackle Russian history. Using (basic!) historical text and the grammar related to it I can begin to improve my chances of reading primary documents and fast track my way through the next year before I need to start research. Its been a daunting prospect up till now, but a challenge I'm only going to enjoy more and more as my progress continues.
And the cake? Well, any excuse for that. Anyone finding themselves on Nevsky Prospect with a few spare roubles in their pocket needs to make a trip to 'Север' (The North) for an incredible selection of everything vaguely fattening and high in calories. Look for a blue sign with a polar bear, a few blocks from the metro heading away from the Winter Palace. Tirimasu happens to be my poison of choice and at less that 300 roubles for enough to feed an apartment full of hungry language students you really can't say "нет"!
Sunday, 6 September 2009
Re-discovering the city...
I should have done this first time round. With the chance today of a guided excursion as part of my intensive crash course, I was treated to a completely fresh tour of the city. Over the course of the next two weeks with the combination of intensive one to one lessons and opportunities for practice sessions in the city itself, I'm hoping my knowledge of Russia begins to expand with a deeper knowledge of the city...
After playing at 'tour guide' and general navigator for the rest of the group - that first trip on the metro decidedly less daunting a prospect this time round - we scouted the major landmarks in the vicinity of Nevsky Prospect. (A route very reminiscant of my first visit to the city. Go with what you know I guess...) However it wasn't until we met with our tutor Nastya that the rain began to clear and we were shown a side of the city off the usual tourist track. Fantastic!
Every landmark and place of interest was new to me, after already spending two weeks in the city I'm realised how little of St Petersburg I've seen.
There is one very important thing missing however. A hand to hold. Someone to share it with. The person in fact who I shared the city with in April, the beautiful young Danish lady I got to call mine. I know my blog has been fairly clinical so far, reading it back it only hints at how incredible the last two weeks I spent here were. I can't pass up the opportunity to express how magical this city is when experienced with someone special. Forgive the sentimentality, I'm in love. x
After playing at 'tour guide' and general navigator for the rest of the group - that first trip on the metro decidedly less daunting a prospect this time round - we scouted the major landmarks in the vicinity of Nevsky Prospect. (A route very reminiscant of my first visit to the city. Go with what you know I guess...) However it wasn't until we met with our tutor Nastya that the rain began to clear and we were shown a side of the city off the usual tourist track. Fantastic!
Every landmark and place of interest was new to me, after already spending two weeks in the city I'm realised how little of St Petersburg I've seen.
There is one very important thing missing however. A hand to hold. Someone to share it with. The person in fact who I shared the city with in April, the beautiful young Danish lady I got to call mine. I know my blog has been fairly clinical so far, reading it back it only hints at how incredible the last two weeks I spent here were. I can't pass up the opportunity to express how magical this city is when experienced with someone special. Forgive the sentimentality, I'm in love. x
Saturday, 5 September 2009
Back on the blog...
I've just landed. About 45 minutes ago at the apartment, giving me enough time to unpack my laptop and fire off my first post. Start as you mean to go on I guess, I'm expecting the workload to be much tougher this time round (more on that later...) so I need to find time for this when I can.
Theres a slight sense of deja vu returning to a wet and grimy city. The big difference has to be the temperature though. We're in double figures (granted only the mid-teens) but for me thats going to make the trip a lot easier on the thermal front. I also noticed how much greener the city looks driving past various parks, road side flower beds and trees. I think one of my first visits will have to be the 'Summer Gardens', to see them as, well, summer gardens.
I'm in the same lodgings as before, so as the course co-ordinator Bart pointed out, not much orientation needed. Quick run to the supermarket will follow this to pick up essentials and beyond that I need fight off the sleep deprivation for as long as I can. Apparently my first excursion into the city with a tutor (again I need to explain my course setup this time round...) is tomorrow afternoon so I need to get my head into Russian all over again.
Thus far I've managed to string together a few disjointed sentences for both a Russian on my flight into 'Polkova 2' and the driver, Alexander, who was on hand to pick me up again. To be fair I also managed to convince a native into thinking I was a Russian speaker by responding with a rather well timed "pazhaloosta" in the queue for passport control, but I don't think counts. Apart from emphasising the importance of confidence when speaking. (And having your British passport tucked out of sight in your back pocket)
Anyway, here's to Russia again, to forcing some cultural development into the head of an otherwise woefully ignorant native English speaker. I've already been introduced to a couple of my fellow students, Dutch guys and as expected, in possession of impecable English. Game on!
Theres a slight sense of deja vu returning to a wet and grimy city. The big difference has to be the temperature though. We're in double figures (granted only the mid-teens) but for me thats going to make the trip a lot easier on the thermal front. I also noticed how much greener the city looks driving past various parks, road side flower beds and trees. I think one of my first visits will have to be the 'Summer Gardens', to see them as, well, summer gardens.
I'm in the same lodgings as before, so as the course co-ordinator Bart pointed out, not much orientation needed. Quick run to the supermarket will follow this to pick up essentials and beyond that I need fight off the sleep deprivation for as long as I can. Apparently my first excursion into the city with a tutor (again I need to explain my course setup this time round...) is tomorrow afternoon so I need to get my head into Russian all over again.
Thus far I've managed to string together a few disjointed sentences for both a Russian on my flight into 'Polkova 2' and the driver, Alexander, who was on hand to pick me up again. To be fair I also managed to convince a native into thinking I was a Russian speaker by responding with a rather well timed "pazhaloosta" in the queue for passport control, but I don't think counts. Apart from emphasising the importance of confidence when speaking. (And having your British passport tucked out of sight in your back pocket)
Anyway, here's to Russia again, to forcing some cultural development into the head of an otherwise woefully ignorant native English speaker. I've already been introduced to a couple of my fellow students, Dutch guys and as expected, in possession of impecable English. Game on!
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